Pigeon, Capers And Grapes
“Every time I talk about Enrico Bartolini, I have to redo the star count: nine in 2021. No Italian had ever arrived to that. This forty-year-old Tuscan from Pescia, trained between London and Paris, earned his culinary doctorate cooking with Massimiliano Alajmo in Padua. Then he went to Oltrepò Pavese where, in 2009, he received his first Michelin star. Two years later, dragged to Brianza, in 2013, he earned the second. The time was ripe to open in Milan and there, in 2019, after a 26 year absence from when it had been taken from the great Gualtiero Marchesi, the third star arrived. In the meantime, the star at Casual in Bergamo Alta arrived; at Andana in Castiglion della Pescaia; at the Locanda Sant’Uffizio in Monferrato, and at the Poggio Rosso in Borgo San Felice in Tuscany. By then though, a “two-star” had arrived at the Glam of Palazzo Venart in the heart of Venice. It is difficult to multiply the number of gourmet restaurants, but almost impossible, at this rate, to multiply the number of Michelin stars.”
2 whole pigeon breasts
100 g American grape juice (Fragolino or Concord)
2 g of vegetable gelatin
100 g capers from Pantelleria
300 g pigeon broth
2 g gelatin
30 g pigeon livers
30 g pigeon hearts
30 g pigeon giblets
2 spring onions
20 g marsala
50 g pigeon stock
- Gel the grape juice with the gelatine and reserve in the fridge.
- Vacuum cook the capers with the pigeon broth at 80 ° C for 3 hours.
- Puree and mix with the gelatine.
- Reserve in the fridge.
- Brown the offal with a little butter.
- Stew together with the onion and deglaze with the marsala.
- Cover with ice and hearts for an hour.
- Filter and leave it to set.
- Cook the breasts covered with butter, flavor with thyme and garlic, cover the breasts well and finish cooking as usual.
- Scallop the four pigeon “magret” and accompany them with the caper and grape sauces and finish with the reduction and offal sauce.